Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
